Rosé by the vineyard pool
A scenic town 31 miles from Cape Town, Paarl is South Africa’s third oldest European settlement. After exploring the vibrant streets of the “Mother City,” I was looking forward to taking in the various farm landscapes on my ride to this picturesque wine district that lies to the north of Stellenbosch with the mountains of the Groot and Klein Drakenstein and Franschhoek ranges to the southeast. The Berg River flows through the valley and supplies a natural source of irrigation for the large varieties of grapes that are grown in Paarl.
Prior to my Winelands visit, I had read an intriguing article in the NY Times about a White farmer in South Africa’s Stellenbosch wine region who woke up one morning to find his vineyard “under siege” by residents from the Black township next door. The squatter had erected 40 shacks on the farmer’s property. As a woman of color, reading about the overcrowding and limited housing in the neighboring township left me with a feeling of disappointment that influenced my decision to skip Stellenbosch on this trip and visit Paarl.
View from the farmhouse
Serenity took over as our Sprinter slowly pulled into the massive gates at the Wildepaardejacht. Situated beneath the second largest granite outcrop in the world, Wildepaardejacht’s rich history made my 1st South African Wineland experience surreal.
On the road to ending Apartheid and receiving the Nobel Peace Prize, South African President Frederik de Klerk and Nelson Mandela had many meetings at the mahogany dining table in this farmhouse purchased by De Klerk’s wife, Elita. These secret meetings led to De Klerk stepping down to become vice president of President Mandela’s government. Beautifully sculpted and finished, I couldn’t help but sit at this table and wonder what secrets it held.
I love how Wildepaardejacht owners, Wayne & Eddie, and their staff were so open to share their perspectives about what Americans have grown to know as the complicated history surrounding South Africa. As Black Americans we had so many questions and this offered the perfect ice breaker that transitioned into us feeling right at home swapping travel stories while sipping wine under the starlit sky by the pool. They’re team making sure that our stay at the historic vineyard was beyond memorable included going the extra mile to bring in a top sommelier from the region to educate us on the different wine varieties available at the vineyard (including my personal fav, rosé). Although the South Africa is best known for its Chenin Blanc and Pinotage, a Cinsault x Pinot Noir crossing, other grapes including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc help to make up the bulk of wine production. Filled with rich cheeses and the freshest hors d’oeuvres, our private tasting did not disappoint. The stunning rock formations offered a quintessential backdrop for a barbecue at dusk that was only trumped by the dew gleaming off the grape vines as we indulge in a scrumptious chef prepared breakfast.
My lovely time in Paarl left me eager to try wines from other South African Wineland regions. When the opportunity to attend the Wines of South Africa tasting at New York City’s Corkbuzz Restaurant & Wine Bar fell into my lap, I couldn’t resist. South Africa ranks 8th among wine-producing countries worldwide and we tasted a selection of over 30 wines from the country’s six large geographical areas while discussing the region’s history and landscape. With aromas of raspberries and cherries, the Graham Beck Brut Rose was my favorite. I hope to visit their vineyard in Stellenbosch on my next visit to the South African Winelands. Do you have a favorite South African wine?
